Needs For Surviving In A Good Manner
Poor Water Quality
Poor water quality is without a doubt a stressor. Saltwater fish depends on the salt water to live.
Saltwater fish and invertebrates can live for days without food, but with no clean water, they can die immediately.
Let’s put it this way, what water to them is air to us!
Fish excretes waste in the water. Out in their natural habitat, that is not a problem. But in an closed saltwater aquarium, this is dangerous.
This is why you need to get the best filtration system for your aquarium. Also, a routine maintenance should be in place. This will help in maintaining an excellent quality of water.
Clean water and excellent water chemistry means healthy water and healthy saltwater fish.
When the saltwater is polluted with wastes:
They will then experience:
To avoid this stressful condition, make sure that your filtration system is adequate to the size of your aquarium. You can also test your water parameters to look and diagnose signs of poor water quality
Saltwater fish and invertebrates can live for days without food, but with no clean water, they can die immediately.
Let’s put it this way, what water to them is air to us!
Fish excretes waste in the water. Out in their natural habitat, that is not a problem. But in an closed saltwater aquarium, this is dangerous.
This is why you need to get the best filtration system for your aquarium. Also, a routine maintenance should be in place. This will help in maintaining an excellent quality of water.
Clean water and excellent water chemistry means healthy water and healthy saltwater fish.
When the saltwater is polluted with wastes:
- pH will drop
- ammonia and other nitrogenous compounds will increase
- the buffering capacity will decline
- carbon dioxide builds
- dissolve oxygen plummets
They will then experience:
- it will be hard for them to breathe
- heart rate will increase
- internal ion balance is interrupted
- internal pH drops
- their body will produce number of hormones as a natural reaction and will jeopardize their immune system
- They will also tend to literally drown. We don’t normally think of this when it comes to species that lives in the water. But it will happen if the level of pollution is extreme.
To avoid this stressful condition, make sure that your filtration system is adequate to the size of your aquarium. You can also test your water parameters to look and diagnose signs of poor water quality
Saltwater Fish Diseases and Treatments
A list of saltwater fish diseases and treatments are listed here.
The most effective way to deal with diseases is to prevent it by minimizing stress.
"A varied diet, stable water temperature, good water parameters, daily observance, and responsible stocking are a few ways to ensure healthy fish, free of disease." - Drs Foster and Smith
But even if you manage to deal with it, unfortunately it will still strike one or more of your saltwater fish. Fish will get sick.
Pathogens that cause diseases are in and around your fish’s natural setting and in your aquarium. They may be bacterial, viral, fungal or parasitic.
So when the fish's skin or tissue gets damaged, whether from shipping, netting or any other circumstances, bacterial and fungal pathogens seize the opportunity to infect the fish.
Poor water quality also weaken the fish's immune system. This could be another cause for fish diseases. Check this page to learn and understand the saltwater aquarium water parameters. Or visit this page to learn more what to do if you're experiencing poor water quality condition in your tank.
The bad thing is that there’s not a lot of treatment available for us aquarists and there is no guarantee that our saltwater fish will be saved.
We will cover topics that are most common in the home aquarium - how you’ll be able to recognize these fish diseases and treatments available.
- Bacterial Infections
- Fin Rot
- Fish tuberculosis, wasting disease
- Vibriosis, ulcer disease
- Viral disease
- Cauliflower or Lymphocystis
- Fungal disease
- Ichthyophonus disease, whirling disease
- Exophiala disease
- Parasitic Infestations
- Marine velvet
- Marine white spot, cryptocaryoniasis, marine ich
- Uronema disease
- Tang turbellarian disease, black spot
- Tremode infestation
- Crustacean infestation
- Other health problems
- Head and lateral line errosion
- Poisoning
Remember that some bacteria are beneficial to the aquarium in the nitrogen cycle? But some can cause infections.
Here are our list of bacterial infection fish diseases and treatments.
Images courtesy of Chuck and Linda's Website:ChucksAddiction.com
- Fin Rot
- Aeromonas, Pseudomonas, Vibrio bacteria
This bacterial infection causes erosion or rotting of the fins and the fin rays. The base of the fins reddens. In an advance stage, it spreads to the skin causing bleeding to the gills.
You can remove uneaten food, do a partial water change, and change the activated carbon in your filter.
The antibiotics furanace, augmentin, and ciprofloxin may be effective.
Recommended treatments: Melafix, Furanase, Furan-2, Maracyn, Maracyn-Two and Maracyn Plus.- Causes
- Symptoms
- Treatment
- Fish tuberculosis, wasting diseaseMycobacterium bacteria
There’s really no external sign for this kind. If your fish looks fine from the outside appearance and looks healthy, it will be hard to recognize if it is internally infected.
Fish that are infected though may live a year or more. Skin lesions, emaciation, labored breathing, scale loss, frayed fins and loss of appetite are all signs of this infection. Unfortunately, by the time these symptoms are recognized, it is probably too late to save the fish.
This bacteria are transmitted orally through raw infected fish flesh, detritus, and feces of the infected fish. They can also infect skin wounds and lesions.
The best treatment is prevention. Try not to feed raw fish and shellfish to your saltwater fish. Antibiotics, including kanamycin, erythromycin, and streptomycin, can be used.
If the saltwater aquarium is heavily infected with this type, it must be sterilized and the water should be discarded.- Causes
- Symptoms
- Treatment
- Vibriosis, ulcer diseaseVibriobacteria
Variety of symptoms are associated with this disease. They can include lethargy, darkening of color, anemia, ulcers on the skin and lower jaw, bleeding of the gills, skin and intestinal track, clouded eyes, loose scales, pale gills and sudden death.
This bacteria commonly go straight to the intestinal tracts of a healthy fish. They become dangerous only when stress allows infection.
Poor water quality, crowding, excessive handling, and copper treatments are common causes of stress in saltwater aquarium fish. Immersion treatments with antibiotic compounds have met with some success.- Causes
- Symptoms
- Treatment
Aquarium maintenance
A key part of aquarium maintenance is the water change, which should be performed about every two weeks. In most cases, 10-15% of the tank volume is sufficient. A good method is to replace the water extracted while vacuuming the gravel, which will eliminate uneaten foods and other residues that settle on the substrate.
It is highly recommended to check the water parameters of both the tank and replacement water. Most tap water (city water) contains either chlorine or chloramine. Chlorine will air out rather quickly (kept in an aerated bucked for twenty-four hours); chloramine (chloramine = chlorine + ammonia) will not. Using a water conditioner will neutralize the chlorine in both cases, but ammonia will still be present in the latter. It has to be broken down by the nitrifying bacteria present in the aquarium. This may take longer than your fish can tolerate.
Other elements of municipal water may be phosphates, iron, and other heavy metals. To find out about your tap water chemistry, call your local water company.
Well water is usually harder than tap water, but is chlorine/chloramine free.
Filtered water should also be checked on a regular basis and should be considered part of your aquarium maintenance routine. The filter membranes could be damaged or may require replacement prior to the expiration date.
Testing Aquarium WaterWater chemistry is not visible; therefore, it is vital to check it on a regular basis. The best way to make this a routine is to check on the tank chemistry while changing the water.
The vital parameters are pH, nitrates, nitrites, and carbonate hardness (salinity for marine tanks).
Stability is the main factor with pH. pH in the range of 6.5 – 7.5 is suitable for most species, but they can adjust if slightly out of range.
KH (carbonate hardness) is the indicator of pH stability. It should be kept under close observation if it comes close to 4.5 dH (degree hardness) or 80 ppm. You must take action if it decreases any further.
Half a teaspoon of baking soda per twenty-five gallons of water will raise the kH by about 1 dH (17.8 ppm).
Nitrites should be undetectable at all times (except during cycling). If you detect nitrites make sure you check on ammonia as well.
Nitrates should be kept below 10 ppm in freshwater and 5 ppm in marine and reef (preferably 0 ppm).
Aquarium FiltrationThe proper function of the filter is essential. Filter inserts (floss, Algone, activated carbon) should be changed at least every four weeks. A high fish load may require shorter periods. Trapped particles will decompose in the filter as they would in the tank. The filter should also be cleaned once a month (do not touch the bio-wheels, if present) by using the water extracted from the tank during the water change.
Recommended Aquarium Maintenance Routine
Daily
It is highly recommended to check the water parameters of both the tank and replacement water. Most tap water (city water) contains either chlorine or chloramine. Chlorine will air out rather quickly (kept in an aerated bucked for twenty-four hours); chloramine (chloramine = chlorine + ammonia) will not. Using a water conditioner will neutralize the chlorine in both cases, but ammonia will still be present in the latter. It has to be broken down by the nitrifying bacteria present in the aquarium. This may take longer than your fish can tolerate.
Other elements of municipal water may be phosphates, iron, and other heavy metals. To find out about your tap water chemistry, call your local water company.
Well water is usually harder than tap water, but is chlorine/chloramine free.
Filtered water should also be checked on a regular basis and should be considered part of your aquarium maintenance routine. The filter membranes could be damaged or may require replacement prior to the expiration date.
Testing Aquarium WaterWater chemistry is not visible; therefore, it is vital to check it on a regular basis. The best way to make this a routine is to check on the tank chemistry while changing the water.
The vital parameters are pH, nitrates, nitrites, and carbonate hardness (salinity for marine tanks).
Stability is the main factor with pH. pH in the range of 6.5 – 7.5 is suitable for most species, but they can adjust if slightly out of range.
KH (carbonate hardness) is the indicator of pH stability. It should be kept under close observation if it comes close to 4.5 dH (degree hardness) or 80 ppm. You must take action if it decreases any further.
Half a teaspoon of baking soda per twenty-five gallons of water will raise the kH by about 1 dH (17.8 ppm).
Nitrites should be undetectable at all times (except during cycling). If you detect nitrites make sure you check on ammonia as well.
Nitrates should be kept below 10 ppm in freshwater and 5 ppm in marine and reef (preferably 0 ppm).
Aquarium FiltrationThe proper function of the filter is essential. Filter inserts (floss, Algone, activated carbon) should be changed at least every four weeks. A high fish load may require shorter periods. Trapped particles will decompose in the filter as they would in the tank. The filter should also be cleaned once a month (do not touch the bio-wheels, if present) by using the water extracted from the tank during the water change.
Recommended Aquarium Maintenance Routine
Daily
- Make sure the equipment is running properly.
- Watch your fish during feeding. Behavioral changes are a good indicator of a potential problem.
- Count your fish. In case of fish death, smaller species can decompose quickly, resulting in ammonia and nitrite spikes, and eventually high nitrate levels.
- Test your water for the vital parameters: pH, carbonate hardness, nitrite and nitrate.
- Change 10-15% of the water .
- Vacuum the gravel .
- Clean the aquarium walls. Filter floss is fairly cheap and very efficient. Start from the bottom upward and rinse out often.
- Rinse filter inserts (cartridges) with the extracted water.
- Replace filter inserts, cartridges, floss, carbon, and Algone.
- Inspect tubing, connections, airstones, skimmers and other parts for proper operation.
- Clean aquarium top to assure your lighting is not affected.
- Check the expiration dates printed on the boxes and bottles of the aquarium supplies you use. Do not use after the imprinted date. Expired test kits will give false readings and may prompt you to take unnecessary action.